In August, we spent time in the beautiful coffee town of Espírito Santo do Pinhal, São Paulo, where the Costa Café export office is located. We had the opportunity to visit our long-term producers to check in on their harvests. We also travelled to the dry mill in nearby Albertina, Minas Gerais, where our coffee is processed for export. This year, the coffees are tasting exceptional, despite yields being down 30-40% compared to previous years. Factors contributing to this decline include smaller screen sizes, drought, and persistently high temperatures that have persisted throughout the winter. Upon our arrival, we were taken aback by the extent of burnt land from recent fires—a sight that is unusual for this time of year and historically not a common occurrence. The dry air was thick with dust from smoke and parched earth. The coffee trees are currently in a critical flowering phase, and we are urgently hoping for rain to relieve the stress on the plants. Although this is a challenging crop year, we remain optimistic. Thanks to the unwavering support of our roasters and the dedication of the amazing producers we work with, we believe we will continue to enjoy outstanding Brazilian coffees in the UK and beyond. Below I describe some of the places we visited.
Costa Café office in Pinhal:
The office in Pinhal is dedicated to export and internal market sales, with a team of over 40 members, many of whom have been with the company for decades. It was a pleasure to spend time with such knowledgeable individuals who were eager to share their insights. Most of our time was spent with Mauricio, the commercial manager as we prepared and cupped various lots. We brought our Ikawa to help maintain our quality control standards, although being at an altitude of 800 masl presents some differences compared to our usual 24 masl in London. This year producers are hesitant to sell quickly if they can hold inventory, as prices remain unstable, and their yields are significantly lower. This drop in yield is attributed to smaller screen-sized beans; smaller beans mean less weight, requiring more grains to fill a bag. The higher the price producers can sell for, the better their chances of covering production costs while making a profit. The flow of coffee from producer to consumer is as follows: the producer sells to the exporter, who prepares the coffee and removes defects, then sells the prepared coffee to the importer, who in turn sells it to a roaster. Unlike other exporters who purchase coffee from producers on credit terms, Costa Café pays producers upon delivery of the coffee (in Bica form). We prepared samples from the Bica form and calculated the split in screen sizes and losses (coffee destined for the internal market). This year, screen sizes of 17 and above averaged only 10% of a lot, compared to up to 30% in previous years. We spent considerable time on our feet preparing samples and developing blends, knowing that this year presents pricing challenges after a long period of lower prices.
Fazenda Barrinha:
Fazenda Barrinha, owned by Bruna’s parents, Armando and Andrea, is nestled in the rolling hills at an elevation of 800-1,100 masl, and grows Mundo Novo. Located just outside the town of Pinhal, this region is renowned for its prime volcanic and fertile soil. The farm is not only dedicated to coffee production; it also hosts a small number of cattle and horses. These animals contribute natural compost for the coffee plants, all produced on-site. Recently, Fazenda Barrinha installed natural irrigation lines to address the increasingly frequent dry weather. This irrigation system helps ensure a more uniform flowering stage during cherry maturation. Water for irrigation is sourced from the farm’s lake, and nutrients can be added in the pump house separately to the lake water, before being evenly distributed to the plants. By doing this, it significantly reduces the manual labour of these inputs. The irrigation system is used only when strictly necessary to avoid water wastage. The farm’s dense vegetation is home to diverse wildlife; one time workers fishing spotted a black panther at dusk. Fazenda Barrinha also has its own fruit and vegetables, growing bananas, papaya, limes, and cassava. Additionally, plenty of lavender is cultivated to attract bees, and several beehives are strategically placed around the farm to aid in the coffee pollination. During our most recent visit, we were delighted to see Toucans, Macaws, and Harpy Eagles. The farm utilizes a traditional practice known as “zero harvest,” which involves rotating sections of trees between rest years and harvest years. This method reduces stress on the plants and is common in the Mogiana region.
Chácara Santo Antônio:
Chácara Santo Antônio is owned by Bruna’s mother, Andrea, alongside her brother Luis. Situated at an elevation of 800-1,100 masl, the farm spans large farmlands and dense forest, cultivating Red Catuai, Mundo Novo, and Arara varietals. Located on the outskirts of Pinhal, this region is also known for its prime volcanic and fertile soils. Each varietal is grown in distinct areas of the farm, utilizing microclimates that best suit each varietals needs. Over the years, the farm has seen a decline in coffee production, primarily because fewer people are living on-site to maintain quality and ensure sustainable operations. The coffee is processed on the original patio, a beautiful structure built in the 1900s during the peak of production days. The processing facilities also include machinery for pulped naturals and mechanical dryers, which were once essential during rainy periods that threatened the drying cherries. However, this machinery has not been used for some time due to the increasingly dry and prolonged hot winters, which now produce the classic naturals we are used to. During our walk around the farm, we spotted Red-legged Seriemas, inquisitive birds resembling small emus that thrive in coffee and forest regions, preying on snakes. Additionally, the numerous ponds around the farm are home to various local waterfowl.
Fazenda Santo Antônio:
Fazenda Santo Antônio is owned by Patricia Coelho. Located at an impressive elevation of 1,050-1,300 masl, the farm features steep hills and dense forest. In addition to Fazenda Santo Antônio, Patricia also owns another farm, São Benedito. Between the two farms she grows a variety of coffee cultivars, including Acaia, Obata, Catuai, Topázio, Tupi, Mundo Novo, and Gesha. Located in a unique microclimate near the border of São Paulo and Minas Gerais, Fazenda Santo Antônio is close to the dry mill in Albertina. Patricia’s son is an agronomist, and her husband, Mauricio, works at Costa Café. Patricia has two dogs who love to roam the farm; Maia, a Border Collie featured in the article’s photo, particularly enjoys playing fetch in the water, and we threw a few sticks for her during our visit. This year, Patricia’s son harvested the farm’s first-ever Gesha yield but accidentally blended it with other lots—a mishap that the family will never let him forget! The farm’s name honours the patron saint of the area, and many places in the Mogiana region share the name Santo Antônio. Patricia also showed us the original farm chapel, which remains in immaculate condition. At the height of coffee production, the farm once supported 30 families living on-site 50 years ago. Today, only Patricia’s family and one other family assist with farm management. The neighbouring farm is owned by the renowned Brazilian winemaker Guaspari, who grows Syrah in this microclimate using a unique technique called winter pruning to alter the growth cycle of the vines. Despite Guaspari’s persistent interest in purchasing Patricia’s land to expand their vineyard, she remains resolute, as coffee is too important to her and her family heritage.
Cerrado region:
We visited three farms in the Cerrado region, located just outside the town of Patrocínio. This area is relatively new to coffee production, having only begun growing coffee about 50 years ago. Prior to that, the land was primarily used for cattle ranching, as the soil conditions were considered unsuitable for coffee cultivation. However, advancements in technology and financing transformed this landscape, and today, Cerrado Mineiro is recognized as a global leader in coffee productivity and innovation. Some of the knowledge that fuelled this development came from Paraná, where many farmers left in the 1970s due to frosts that devastated their yields. Relocating farmers sought new opportunities coming from all over Brazil to try growing coffee in this new region. The soil was adapted to make it suitable for coffee production, and over the years, technological improvements steadily boosted productivity. In Cerrado the harvesting machines that are synonymous with Brazilian coffee production are widely utilized, thanks to the gently rolling hills that allow for safe operation of large machinery, reducing the need for numerous farm workers during the harvest. As a result, the farms here tend to be significantly larger and flatter compared to those we work with in Mogiana, where traditional farming methods and hand harvesting (using handheld machinery, not hand picking) are common due to the steep terrain. Additionally, many coffee farmers also grow other crops, making productive use of the landscape and technological advancements that facilitate diverse agricultural practices.
Fernando and Elesandra Beloni are a husband-and-wife team of innovative coffee producers who have pioneered regenerative agriculture in Brazil, making their farm the first certified regenerative agricultural farm in the country. They also grow other crops on their farms such as soya, wheat, orange, potatoes and onions. Their groundbreaking work has inspired many other producers in the region to adopt similar practices tailored to local conditions. To enhance their farming productivity without using just fertilizers, they invested in a laboratory and employed an on-site scientist who cultivates beneficial fungi and bacteria. This initiative allows them to integrate natural inputs into the soil, reducing pesticide and fertilizer use by up to 40%. They base their soil samples on the nearby natural forest, aiming to replicate its healthy ecosystem, and they also create their own compost using organic waste from other farm waste products, such as damaged potatoes and the coffee cherries. The farm has tanks for storing the cultivated fungi and bacteria, ensuring that these inputs are produced and held onsite for timely application throughout the different crop seasons. Elesandra, a recently qualified Q grader, is passionate about conservation and shared with us pictures of the snake (mostly pythons) that she has encountered on the farm, proudly holding them in the photos.
Nunes Coffee, owned by Gabrielle Nunes has various varietal cultivation, including his own Gesha plants, which are grown under large shade trees. His farm has previously won Cup of Excellence with two coffees scoring over 92 points in the pulped natural category, and the coffees we cupped on-site were exceptional. The agronomist managing the farm, who previously worked for another internationally recognized farm in the region, is a tremendous asset to the team. This expertise is reflected in the distinct cup profiles they produce.
Lazaro and Gustavo Ribeiro, father-and-son team at Fazenda Congonhas are also certified in regenerative agriculture and produce a wide selection of natural specialty coffees in large volumes. They create their own compost blend on-site to enhance soil health and grow shade plants between the coffee rows. The shade plants are trimmed right before harvest to allow mechanical harvesters to pass through easily. The farm is also home to two friendly red-legged Seriemas that happily stroll by and occasionally sneak a meal from the dogs’ bowls.
The prolonged droughts are impacting coffee prices, but it’s remarkable to see the resilience of the coffee farmers in response to these challenges. Despite the long-term strain from prolonged drought conditions, the farms we visited are adapting and finding innovative solutions. While some showed signs of past frost damage or new areas affected by a recent cold snap, the determination of these farmers is evident. Although yields are down by an average of 30% to 40% from 2023 to 2024, the quality of the coffees we sampled was excellent. The smaller screen-sized beans did not detract from the flavour, and we enjoyed an incredible range of coffees that highlighted Brazil’s remarkable diversity and innovation. This adaptability and commitment to quality is inspiring, and we’re excited to see what the future holds for Brazilian coffee.
Can’t wait to be back and journal about it in all the years to come.
Yours,
Emma Wallace
